Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
