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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.